Sew Basics: Bias Tape (part 1)

I am so inspired by all of you that are new to sewing, getting back into sewing, or are thinking about buying a sewing machine to start sewing.  I love all the emails you have sent me and conversations we have had over on facebook.  I haven't been the most consistent with my "Sew Basics" tutorials, but I'm going to try to put more of these together in hopes that you all will get as hooked on sewing as I am.

As most of you know, I am a self-taught sewer (well, mostly).  I've had a few lessons from my Grandma and grew up with my Mom sewing (though I never showed much interest).  Bias tape was very confusing to me when I first started sewing garments.  I couldn't figure out which side was supposed to go where.  If any of you are like me, I hope this tutorial will help ease the confusion.

Here's the plan for Sew Basics: Bias Tape

Part 1: Sewing bias tape to a garment
Part 2: Making your own bias tape from fabric

After part two, I will show you how to take your homemade bias tape and turn it into corded piping.

Let's get started........

Bias tape is a narrow piece of fabric that is cut on the bias (45 degree angle) which allows it to be stretchier and more fluid than fabric cut straight across.  Because of it's stretchiness, bias tape works great for encasing raw curved edges and giving items a finished look.

Bias tape can be purchased in the notions section of your local fabric store.  You can usually find it near the zippers and ric-rac.  These days, most bias tape comes in basic, solid colors; however, you can find vintage bias tape (see above picture) in all sorts of different fun patterns.  To customize your own bias tape, you will need to make your own (we will discuss that in part 2).

There are two different types of bias tape that is made in varying widths - single-fold and double-fold.

Single-fold bias tape has two sides folded inwards (one fold is slightly larger than the other) and it is not folded down the center.  Double-fold bias tape is basically single-fold bias tape, but folded in half again lengthwise.  Double-fold will encase an entire raw edge with bias on either side of the raw edge.  Single-fold will allow you to fold over a raw edge to the inside of a garment to finish the edge, but generally you will not see any bias tape on the exterior of the garment.  I like to use double-fold for most things.

Here is an example of how to sew double-fold bias tape to encase an armhole on a vintage pillow case dress:

Open up your double-fold bias tape.  If you look very closely you will see that one side has a larger fold than the other.  This is a very important detail to notice before you sew on your bias tape.

Open up the fold on the smaller side. When getting ready to encase an arm hole, you want to line up the raw edge of the garment with the raw edge of the smaller fold of the bias tape.  Pin this in place on the right-side of the garment.  So as you can see above, you will need to unfold the double-fold tape quite a bit for this step to work.  The larger fold will remain folded over.

Stitch in the fold along the raw edge of both the bias tape and the garment.  Sew on the right-side of the garment.

Here (picture above) is what your bias tape will look like once you have stitched in the fold towards along the side with the smaller fold.

Next fold your bias tape over to the other side (wrong-side of the garment).  If you notice in the picture above, the bias tape on the underside is ever so slightly wider than the top.  This is exactly what you want.

Now stitch as close to the edge of the bias tape as possible on the top side (smaller fold).  Stitching on this side will ensure that you will catch the larger fold (on the other side) and have perfect looking bias tape every time!  Important to note:  You stitched your original line of stitching on the right-side of the garment and you are doing your second set of stitching on the same side (right-side) of the garment.

 

Here is what your bias tape will look like once it is sewn into place.

I used the double-fold bias tape technique on this vintage pillowcase dress arm hole.  Using this method, I have no trouble sewing perfect bias tape every time!

You can use bias tape to encase any raw edge of a sewing project or simply use it to add a pop of color and style.  Try it on the bottom edge of a skirt, the bottom of a dish towel for some added decorative detail, or on the edge of a pocket.

Single-fold bias tape works very similarly to double-fold.  The only difference is that when you fold over your bias tape to the wrong-side of the garment there will be nothing left on top (you won't see the bias tape from the right-side of the garment).  Instead you will just see a line of stitching on the fabric where you have sewn your single-fold bias tape to the wrong-side of the garment.  Personally I find double-fold bias tape to be easier and have a cleaner, more finished look, but use whatever your pattern or design calls for.

Once you master sewing bias tape, you will feel like you have come along way as a beginning sewer.  Honestly, I used to dread sewing bias tape, but now it is a piece of cake!  Don't let bias tape scare you, it can be a lot of fun and I will show you how to add your own special flare to projects in Sew Basics: Bias Tape (part 2).

Cottage Mama's Note:  If you have any questions, please email me at thecottagemama@gmail.com and I am happy to help.  We have lots of fun talking "sewing" over on The Cottage Mama facebook page, so come on over and join in the fun! Pin It

Happy Halloween

 

Happy Halloween from The Cottage Home!  

Hope you all have fun trick-or-treating with your little pumpkin heads - I know we will!!

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Two Little Pumpkin Heads

I feel so relieved that the girls Halloween costumes are complete.  I went back and forth for several weeks try to decide what they were going to be, but could not decide.  Finally, I took the girls to the fabric store and let Savannah decide. 

I pulled out the Simplicity Halloween costume book and she said she wanted to be a pumpkin.  Perfect!  Not the most creative costume idea, but definitely a classic.  I mean really, how long will they let you dress them up as pumpkins?  Not long, I suppose.

So here is the pattern we settled on.

Today was Savannah's ballet class and they were all supposed to dress up in their costumes.  Not wanting to make Matilda feel left out, I dressed her up too.

Here are my two little pumpkin heads waiting for Savannah's class to begin.  They are looking and acting more and more like sisters these days.  I love it!  I have to admit that the idea of having two little ones 16-months apart scared me in the beginning, but I am realizing more and more that it is actually quite a blessing.

After Savannah went into class, I had to snap a few pictures of my littlest pumpkin head.  She does not like to wear hats (unlike her sister), so I made sure to put a ribbon tie on her little hat.

Here's Miss Matilda thinking about trying to take her hat off.  The ribbon tie worked, she kept her hat on!

After ballet class was over, I took the girls to a local pumpkin patch to take a few more pictures of them in their costumes. 

I have a hard time following patterns exactly.  It's probably the same reason I have trouble following recipes.  I always like to make it my own by putting my own spin on it.  I turned this costume into more of a pillowcase dress, drew my own faces, and changed up the hat a little bit.  I do, however, think patterns are wonderful for help with sizing and inspiration.

The main fabric is orange fleece and the black, green and tan are all felt.  I love working with fleece.  It's so easy to sew and you don't have to worry about serging or finishing the edges.  Not to mention the fact that this costume will be warm and toasty trick-or-treating in the cool October air.

I just love these two little pumpkin heads!

Cottage Mama's Note:  This costume was very simple to sew - perfect for beginners!  If you have not made your child's costume yet, you could probably get this done in about an hour or two.  So if you have an hour to spare, go for it!

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Comfy Sews: Shawl Collar Sweater Tutorial

Welcome to those of you visiting from over in the "Mommyhood"!  I'm so excited that Shannon asked me to be part of this month long battle she is having going on over on her blog, Luvinthemommyhood - Comfy Sews vs. Cozy Knits.  Guess which side of the ring I'm on?

For those of you that know me, you know I am all about the sewing over on my blog, The Cottage Home.  On a rare occassion I pick up my crochet hook and maybe someday I'll learn how to knit, but for now, the sewing needle is my tool of choice.

As of lately I've been slightly obsessed with felted wool.  I thought this would be a great project to bring some of those on the "Cozy Knits" side of the ring over to the dark-side, "Comfy Sews".  Surprisingly this project has minimal sewing and does not even require a sewing machine (though there is some hand-sewing involved).  So if you have ever thought about trying a sewing project, trust me, this will be right up a beginners alley!

I don't know if you'll believe me, but this is just one large oval of fabric! You can use regular fleece fabric, recycled felted wool sweaters or, if you knit, you could simply knit your own fabric oval and felt it.  If you have never felted wool before, click here to view my latest tutorial.

Let's get started..........

Shawl Collar Sweater Tutorial

Supplies:

1 yard of fabric (either felted wool or regular fleece - any non-fraying fabric)

1 large button or large shank button (to be covered with fabric)

Scissors

Hand-sewing needle

Thread

Optional:

Scrap of fabric (if covering button)

Fabric covered button kit 

Embroidery floss and embroidery needle (if monogramming button)

Water-soluble fabric marker

Directions:

The diagram below should help clarify what I am talking about in each step.  I'm a very visual learner and because this was such a large piece of fabric, I thought this would be easier to understand than my pictures.  

Below you can see that the width of my oval fabric piece was 42" and the length was 35".  I would say I wear a small/medium these days and have a somewhat larger chest.  If you are smaller or larger then you may want to adjust the measurements a little bit.

Fold the yard of fabric in half length-wise, then width-wise.  I am using a large piece of felted wool here (that I purchased from my thrift store and felted at home), but you can use any fabric you like that won't fray.  We are leaving the edges raw and the arm holes raw, so you don't want a fabric that will fray.  Fleece would be a nice choice or you could even try to use some kind of knit. 

Cut a quarter circle.  Divide your length measurement in half and your width measurement in half and connect the dots with your curve.  This will give you an even oval.

Unfold your oval piece of fabric.  As you can see, it is a rather large oval, that's why I included the first diagram.

Measure half your width and half your length to find your center point.

Measure the widest part of your back (up by the shoulder blades).  Cut your arm holes 9"-10" long in the center of the oval - they should be cut your back measurement apart.  My back was 17", therefore each arm hole was cut 12.5" in from the edge of the oval (see first illustration).

After you have cut your arm holes.  Fold over the top of the oval 9"-10".  The 9"-10" is for the largest part of the curve.

Try on your shawl sweater to determine button placement.  My button placement was about 3" from the edge.  You can sort of see the white head of the pin in the picture above.

This next step is completely optional.  I wanted to make a special monogrammed button, but you could definitely use any button you have on hand.  If you aren't monogramming your button, you can skip the next several steps.  I also used some wool suiting fabric for my covered button.

Trace your covered button template onto the fabric.

Trace your button inside the template with a water-soluble fabric marker.

 

Hand embroider your initial onto the fabric.  I did an "L" for Lindsay.

Follow the instructions for your covered button kit and cover your button.  Make sure to center the letter in the middle of the button.  Stitch into place.  Cut two small slits on the other side of your shawl collar to use as the button hole.  Again, you don't have to do a "real" button hole because the felted wool will not fray.  I also tacked the other-side in place with about four hand stitches.  Now, try on your new sweater!

And there you have it - a comfy Shawl Collar Sweater - perfect for those cool autumn days!

Cottage Mama's Note:  This piece of wool only cost me $1.00, plus the button = $1.25 for some hip fall fashion!

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