Scalloped Envelope Clutch ~ Free Pattern and Tutorial

This was a project I shared a while back over at Riley Blake Designs and in case you missed it, I'm bringing it home.

When I came across this printed cross-stitch fabric, I just new it would be perfect for some type of bag. It's from the 'Hipster' cotton line and I'm absolutely in love with these prints. Envelope clutches seem to be all the rage right now and I have a thing for scalloped edges, so put them together and what do you get? A Scalloped Envelope Clutch Tutorial. Let's get started.......

Scalloped Envelope Clutch Tutorial

by Lindsay Wilkes from The Cottage Mama

Fabric Line: 'Hipster' cottons by Riley Blake Designs

Supplies:

1 yard exterior fabric

1 yard lining fabric

**if you have a non-directional print you can get away with only a half yard of each print and cut the pattern on the horizontal.

1/2 yard fusible interfacing

1 button
Free pattern piece found HERE

Instructions:

ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES 1/2", UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

Step 1: Assemble your pattern. This pattern is very easy. All you need is 8.5" x 11" sheets of paper. Print out your scallop piece from the free pattern included above in the supplies list and cut it out. Then place two 8.5" x 11" sheets with the longs sides flush next to each other and tape them together, then place the straight edge of the scallop piece flush up against one of the sheets of paper and tape them together. Now you have your Scallop Envelope Clutch pattern. You may need to angle cut the paper attaching to the scallop piece depending on how your printer prints out the pattern piece.

Step 2: Apply fusible interfacing to the back of the two fabrics you are using. Do so according to manufacturers instructions. You can use any interfacing you would like, but just remember that the thicker the interfacing, the sturdier this will be as a clutch.

Also, if you would like to use this as a case for a kindle or other electronic device, you could apply fusible fleece to the backsides of the fabric as well. 

     

Step 3: Cut out your pattern pieces. You need one in the exterior fabric and one in the lining. Fold up the bottom of the clutch so that it comes up to the bottom of the scallops with the right sides together.

Step 4: Sew along both straight sides. Do this for the lining and exterior pieces. Clip the corners at an angle to remove bulk.

Step 5: Turn the interior lining piece right side out and press.

Step 6: At this point the exterior piece is still wrong side out. Take the lining piece and tuck it down inside the exterior piece. This will make it so that the right sides are together.

Step 7: You'll need to leave a little part open across the front of the clutch so go ahead and mark this with your fabric marking pen so you won't forget.

Step 8: Sew the exterior and the lining together all the way around the scallops. Start where the side seams end and go all the way up, around and back down to the other side seam.

Step 9: Clip around the scallops. Use pinking shears or scissors and clip the seam allowance down and cut each dip in the scallop. You need to cut almost to the stitching at the dips of the scallops, otherwise they will not turn out nicely. If they aren't laying flat when you turn your clutch right side out, that is probably the problem.

Step 10: Sew across the front of the clutch, making sure to leave that one section open that we already marked. Your stitches across the front should meet up with the stitches you did for the scallops. Clip out the extra fabric in the corner so that it turns out nicely. Cut down to the stitches, but making sure not to go through them. Make sure to move the back of the clutch out of the way so you don't catch it in your seam.

Step 11: Turn the clutch right side out by pulling the fabric through the opening. Tuck the lining down into the exterior, making sure to neatly tuck in the corners.

Step 12: Press out the scallops. Sometimes you really have to 'work out' the scallops with your iron to make them look nice. Try rolling the seams out with your fingers......that always works well for me. And press, press, press!

Step 13: Press under the little section you left open so that it is in line with the center front of the clutch.

Step 14: Run a row of topstitching across the front of the clutch to close the opening. You could also topstitch around the scallops as well, but make sure you go slowly because if those stitch lines don't look good, they will definitely show on the front side of the clutch.

Step 15: Make a buttonhole on the center scallop based on the size of your button and according to your machines instructions. Open the buttonhole.

Step 16: Close the top scallop piece and mark for your button placement. Hand or machine sew your button in place.

 

And now look......you have a completed Scalloped Envelope Clutch!

Feel free to adjust the measurements. Wouldn't this make an adorable case for your ipad using fusible fleece for padding? So many options!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

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Easy Knot Dress ~ Free Pattern and Tutorial

I love an easy sundress, don't you? It's still pretty cold and snowy around here in Chicago, but I'm already dreaming about spring. The minute I saw the Little Matroyshka fabric in the Riley Blake Designs catalog, I knew I must use this fabric for my girls. I love the little nesting dolls and the different coordinating prints. Savannah, my oldest, is becoming quite picky about her clothing loved this line too so I was happy to be able to use it to make her a dress for our upcoming (hopefully soon) warmer weather. But until then, she can still wear it layered with a long sleeved shirt and tights or leggings.

This Easy Knot Dress tutorial is an adaptation of my free pattern, the 'Summer Picnic Dress'. This dress comes together in an afternoon and is age appropriate for itty bitty girls and a little bit older girls as well. The free pattern is offered in size 12m - Size 4, but can easily be sized up or down by adjusting the chest width and dress length.

Pattern Adjustment (sizing up): I sized the dress up from a size 4 to a size 6 by simply adding 1" to the yoke and facing pattern pieces to the side that says 'fold', 2 inches to the length of the main dress and an additional 1" to the longer ruffle. By adding 1" to the yoke and facing pieces, that gave me an additional 2" across the chest because the piece is cut on the fold. Another great option when drafting a sewing pattern up or down, is to use a piece of clothing your child already owns and you know fits well and use that to compare to your pattern to make sure your adjustments are accurate.

Easy Knot Dress
SIZE 12 MONTH - SIZE 4

A Free Pattern from The Cottage Mama for Riley Blake Designs

MATERIALS:

1 - 1.5 yards of fabric (cotton, seersucker, linen, lined eyelet, denim, ect).

1/2 yard - 3/4 yard rickrack or other trim 
Baby cording (if adding piping)
Double Sided Fusible Interfacing (i.e. Steam-A-Seam Lite 2)

Basic Sewing Supplies 
For the Easy Knot Dress print the Summer Picnic Dress Pattern (print HERE).

INSTRUCTIONS:

For the easy knot dress you will need to print the Summer Picnic Dress Pattern (print HERE).  Cut out the appropriate size and tape together the main dress piece.  There are four pieces for the main dress that need to be put together.  Overlap the pattern pieces at the solid lines to form the main dress pattern piece. See the final page of the printable pattern for a diagram.

If you have any trouble printing the pattern, please check your printer settings.  I have printed it out many times on my own home printer, so it should print properly. Make sure your printer is set to NO scaling.

Cut all pieces according to pattern.  You should have the following pieces cut using the pattern:

2 - Main Dress

2 - Yoke Pieces

2 - Facings 

For the pocket, cut two squares according to these measurements:
Size 12 Month & 2T: 4" x 4"
Size 3T and up: 5" x 5" 

For the straps, cut 2 rectangles according to these measurements:

Size 12 Month & 2T: 15" x 4.5"

Size  3T & 4T: 17" x 5"
*If you would prefer a shorter strap, by all means, just reduce the length measurement.

For the bottom ruffles, cut 2 ON THE FOLD* of each of the following:

Size 12 Month & 2T: 3"x 18" and 4" x 18"

Size 3T & 4T (also used for size 6, if sizing up): 4" x 22" and 5" x 22"

*The measurements for the ruffles given above are the measurement on the fold, not the long finished piece measurement. Again, cut 2 of each on the fold of the measurements given. You will end up with four pieces for the double ruffle.

ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES 1/2'', UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

 

For the pocket, cut your two squares. Find an item in your home with a rounded edge and use that as your template for cutting the two rounded corners. Round two of the corners on both pocket pieces.

Add the doll to the pocket. Apply double sided fusible interfacing (I like Steam-A-Seam Lite 2) to the back of a piece of the nesting doll fabric. Once you have applied one side of the interfacing, cut out the doll. Remove the paper backing, position on pocket and press to fuse the doll to the pocket. Using a satin stitch or your favorite applique stitch, sew all the way around the doll with embroidery thread.

Insert the rick rack into the pocket. This is completely optional as you can definitely skip this step if you would like. Line up the rick rack with the edge of the pocket and hold in place by using Wash Away Wonder Tape or pins. If you are using pins, baste stitch the rick rack in place before adding the other side of the pocket. But if you use the wonder tape, no basting is necessary.

Place the other pocket piece on top with the right sides together and sew all the way around the pocket, leaving a slight opening on the side of the pocket. Check the size of your trim. If you are using a larger or smaller rick rack then you might need to adjust the placement so that your 1/2" seam allowance will have the little edge of the rick rack poking through. If you are using standard rick rack, it should work just perfectly.

Clip the corners and notch out the curves of the pocket. Turn the pocket right side out by pulling the fabric through the opening.

Once your pocket is turned right side out, press it so that it lays nice and flat. Make sure to press under the little opening in the side of the pocket.

Pin the pocket to the dress. The placement is entirely up to you. Just place it where you think it would look good. Sew the pocket to the dress, leaving the top edge open. Make sure to sew some reinforcement stitching to the top corners of the pocket (kids can be really hard on pockets). Once you have sewn around the pocket, the topstitching will have closed the little opening on the side.

You will need two straps for the knot dress. For the ends of the straps, cut them so that they make a point. Fold the strap in half, with the right sides together. Sew down the long side and to one of the points. Leave the short, straight edge open. Turn the strap right side out and press. Topstitch or Edge stitch around the strap. Do this for both strap pieces.

If you would like to add piping in the seam between the yoke and the main dress, you can check out my piping tutorials. For how to make your own piping, click HERE and for how to insert piping, click HERE. I actually did not cut this piping on the bias since I knew it would be inserted in a straight seam and I already liked the diagonal of the fabric. If you were planning to make a lot of piping and wanted to use it in future projects, I would not recommend doing it the way I did......go ahead and cut it on the bias.

So for the rest of the dress construction, you can refer to the instructions for the Summer Picnic Dress. To find those instructions, click HERE. Just remember, you are only inserting straps in the back part of the dress, you need to make two small, 3/4" buttonholes on the front yoke and if you are doing the double ruffle, just layer the two ruffles together before gathering.

This is such a simple dress that your little lady will love to wear day after day. The design is pretty forgiving, so she should also be able to continue to wear it as a top once she gets taller. 

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and thanks so much for stopping by!

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Patchwork Pillow Pattern and Tutorial

My mom's birthday was last month. She and Savannah actually share the same birthday, March 5th.....it's pretty special. Mom always comes to visit for the kids birthday and I wanted to make her something special for her birthday this year. She has really been into quilting lately and we share the same love of patterned fabric. I came up with this pretty patchwork pillow for her to put on the couch in her sewing studio. The 'M' is for Mom or her last name, 'Michel'.

The pattern I created for this pillow makes a fairly large pillow (20" x 20"), but you could certainly make it smaller by not adding the sashing around the edges or using smaller squares of fabric. Also, I used machine embroidery on a solid color fabric for the center panel, but if you don't have machine embroidery just use another patterned fabric or consider doing some hand embroidery.

Patchwork Pillow Pattern and Tutorial

by Lindsay Wilkes from The Cottage Mama

Supplies:

40 (2.5") squares of fabric in coordinating prints

1/2 yard fabric for sashing

Fat quarter or fabric scrap for center panel

3/4 yards fabric for pillow backing, cut 20" x 20"

1 20" x 20" pillow form or fiberfill for stuffing

Instructions:
 

Step 1: Cut the pieces according to the graphic pictured above. If you are planning on using embroidery on your center panel, do that prior to cutting out your square so you have plenty of extra fabric to place in your hoop.

Center Panel (Cut 1): 6.5" x 6.5"
Small squares (Cut 40): 2.5" x 2.5"
Top and Bottom Sashing (Cut 2): 14" x 3.25"
Side Sashing (Cut 2): 3.25" x 20"
Pillow Back (Cut 1): 20" x 20"

Step 2: Sew the pieces together. Look at the pattern graphic pictured above. I tried to color coordinate each step of sewing the pillow together. You will sew from the inside outward. The actual patchwork will not all be in the same color, but the colors above are for visual reference. Make sure you press as you go.

**All Seam Allowances 1/4", unless otherwise noted**

-Sew the pink squares together, then attach them to the center panel.
-Sew the blue squares together, then attach them to the center panel.
-Sew the yellow squares together, then attach them to the center panel (which will already have the pink and blue squares attached).
-Sew the green squares together and attach them to the center panel.
-Attach the bottom and the top row of sashing to the center panel.
-Attach the two side sashing pieces to the center panel to finish piecing the pillow top.

The picture above is what your pillow front will look like once you have pieced the entire thing together.

Step 3: Topstitch the pillow front. Feel free to get creative with this part of your pillow. I simply ran a line of stitching on either side of each seam on the patchwork section using a 1/4" seam allowance. And did one row of topstitching on the sashing around the border of the patches also using a 1/4" seam allowance. You could definitely add batting to the back of the pillow top to give it a more quilted look; however, I did not use batting for this particular pillow.

Also, since this stitching was purely decorative, I used aqua embroidery thread that coordinated with the machine embroidery. Just remember, you don't want to use embroidery thread in your seams, but it's great for decorative stitching because of the lovely sheen!

Step 4: Attach the pillow front to the pillow back using a 1/2" seam allowance. Place the pillow front and the pillow back with their right sides together and sew around three of the four sides. Clip the corners to remove the bulk, turn right side out and press. Make sure to press out the corners with a point turner or a chopstick.

Press the edge that you left open under by 1/2" towards the wrong side of the fabric (this will make hand sewing the pillow close much easier in the following step).

Step 5: Insert the pillow form and close the pillow. My favorite closing stitch is a blind stitch because you don't see any of the stitching, but you can use any stitch you like.

If you've never done a blind stitch before, you should give it a try! My Grandma Peggy taught me how to sew one quite some time ago and I love it. My blogging friend Amy from Positively Splendid has a great tutorial found here for exactly how to sew a blind stitch. Also, if you would prefer an envelope style back (so you can wash the pillow cover), you can check out my friend, Delia's blog, for a 20" Easy Envelope Pillow Tutorial.

Now look......your pillow is complete!

A few other notes:

The 'M' design was a built in embroidery design on my Baby Lock Unity Sewing and Embroidery Machine. The colors for embroidery were all Gutermann Embroidery Thread with the colors being 7165 (aqua), 8595 (green), and 5136 (light pink). I just started getting into machine embroidery so I don't have a huge thread preference yet, but I think these turned out very nicely. I also used a tear-away stabilizer on the back of the fabric prior to embroidering.

The fabric I used was a 2.5" square mini-charm pack of "Marmalade" by Bonnie & Camille for Moda Fabrics. The sashing and backing were both cut from yardage of the same line of fabric. Several blog sponsors here at The Cottage Home carry this line of fabric and you can find the fabric store sponsors in the right side bar of the blog.

Thanks for stopping by!

I hope you have a wonderful week!

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